Evolution and Iterative Improvements of Long-Join Zhaga Sockets JL-700
Introduce
Outdoor smart lighting depends on strong, stable, and waterproof hardware. This is why Long-Join continues to improve its Zhaga sockets, making them safer, easier to install, and ready for harsh environments.
Over the years, the JL-700 series has grown through real-world feedback from lighting engineers, installers, and global photocell users. Each version keeps what works and upgrades what needs to perform better in the field.
Below, we explore how Long-Join improved the JL-700 step by step — and why it matters for modern lighting control, smart cities, and long-term reliability.
Why Has Long-Join Continually Evolved the JL-700 Zhaga Socket?
Are you working with outdoor smart lights and wonder why installation sometimes feels harder than it should? Many engineers face the same struggle. Water leaks, gasket wrinkles, unstable torque, and rear-cable damage can weaken even the best light. Long-Join designed the JL-700 line to solve these exact problems in a simple and practical way.
From the first version to the newest models, each upgrade was driven by one goal: make the socket stronger, easier to install, and more reliable with modern photocell lighting systems.
Long-Join started with the basic JL-700V1, which already met Zhaga Book 18 standards. But once customers began using it in the field—from dry inland areas to wet coastal zones—new needs became clear:
- Installers needed smoother tightening to avoid gasket wrinkling.
- Outdoor projects needed better sealing to handle rain, dust, salt, and fog.
- Some systems needed cable connectors, especially when pairing the socket with a photocell sensoror street light controller.
- Extreme locations required even stronger waterproofing.
Instead of solving the issues with one large redesign, Long-Join followed a layered approach. Each version fixed one challenge without removing what already worked well.
This mindset is also seen in other Long-Join products, such as the photocontrol receptacle and outdoor light controller sockets, which evolve the same way.
This careful improvement cycle is what makes Long-Join a trusted name among manufacturers photocell, lighting engineers, and smart-city system integrators.
How Do the Different JL-700 Versions Compare?
Choosing a socket for a street light photocell can be confusing. You are not sure which design will work best for your project. Each JL-700 version targets a different installation need, and their differences become clearer when placed side by side.
Below is a human-friendly explanation of each version in the evolution chain.
JL-700V1 — The Foundation
JL-700V1 introduced the basic Zhaga Book 18 structure. It included:
- Silicone gasket
- Zinc nut
- Standard threaded head
It worked well in general outdoor conditions but had one weakness: Over-tightening could wrinkle the gasket, reducing waterproofing.
Installers who used power tools or exceeded 2.5 N·m often noticed this issue. This feedback directly inspired the next version.
JL-700V2 — Better Stability but No Grooves Yet
JL-700V2 kept the original structure but improved installer control. It added:
- A plastic nut option
- A securement ring
- A 4-slot head design
- A silicone gasket with notches
These changes helped the gasket stay in place during tightening. However, because the threaded head still had no groove, gasket wrinkling could still happen when torque was too high.
JL-700V3 — The First True Anti-Wrinkle Design
JL-700V3 solved the main complaint from lighting technicians.
It introduced:
- A grooved threaded head that locks the gasket firmly
- Support for plastic or zinc nuts
- Improved stability during installation
This was the first version that fully prevented gasket wrinkles, even when installers used higher torque. For outdoor LED projects with light photocell sensor systems, JL-700V3 immediately became a favorite.
JL-700L — Cable Connector + IP66 Waterproofing
JL-700L was built for smart lighting that needs a cable connection. Its upgrades included:
- A gland cable connector
- IP66-rated waterproofing
- Customizable cable length (AWM 1015 gauge)
This model became ideal for street lighting outdoor systems, especially where a photoelectric sensor or photocell switch must connect into the controller.
JL-700L Heat-Shrink — The Strongest Waterproof Structure
The heat-shrink version was created for the harshest environments:
- Coastal areas
- Docks
- Industrial zones with acid fog
- Bridges
- High-humidity regions
It contains a heat-shrink tube (10–20 cm) that seals the rear cable with silicone. The multi-layer protection shields the socket from seawater, acid, dust, vibration, and long-term corrosion.
Below is the comparison table rewritten clearly for installers:
Table: How Do JL-700 Versions Differ?
Model | Waterproof Method | Nut Type | Threaded Head Design | Cable Connector | Best Use Case |
JL-700V1 | Silicone gasket | Zinc | No groove | No | Basic use; low-risk outdoor areas |
JL-700V2 | Silicone gasket + notches | Plastic/Zinc | 4-slot | No | Better stability; budget installations |
JL-700V3 | Silicone gasket | Plastic/Zinc | Grooved | No | Professional installations needing anti-wrinkle sealing |
JL-700L | Silicone gasket + IP66 | Zinc | Grooved | Gland cable | Smart lighting with cable connection |
JL-700L Heat-Shrink | Silicone + heat-shrink IP66 | Zinc | 4-slot | Heat-shrink cable | Harsh environments; anti-corrosion & anti-dust |
Why Is the Heat-Shrink JL-700L Essential for Harsh Environments?
Have you ever installed a lighting control socket near the sea or in a chemical-heavy zone and noticed rust or moisture after only a few months? Standard sockets usually cannot survive these places. Saltwater creeps in. Fog brings corrosion. Cables weaken under vibration.
The JL-700L Heat-Shrink type was made to solve this real-world problem. This is why it stands out:
1. Multi-Layer Waterproof Structure
Instead of relying on one seal, it uses:
- A silicone gasket on the front
- A 10–20 cm heat-shrink tube on the rear
- A tight gland structure
This prevents water, salt, fog, and dust from entering from either side.
2. Stronger Cable Protection
In coastal or factory areas, cables bend and pull a lot. Heat-shrink tubing grips the cable firmly and helps prevent damage:
- Loosening
- Internal tearing
- Vibration damage
This is especially important for systems with photocell street light controls that need stable connectivity.
3. Longer Lifespan
With moisture blocked at both ends, oxidation slows down dramatically. This means lower maintenance costs and fewer site visits — a major benefit for cities upgrading to smart lighting systems.
4. High-Reliability in Smart City Projects
When working with intelligent lighting:
- Sensors exchange data
- Controllers react to dusk-to-dawn photocellinputs
- Systems depend on stable wiring
A single leak in the socket can break the entire chain. This version keeps the network stable for years, even in risky environments.
What Are the Key Installation Differences You Should Know?
If you have installed a normal Zhaga socket before, the heat-shrink version may look familiar at first. But one key step sets it apart. This step is what gives it very strong waterproofing.
Here is a simple guide. It explains how the installation process works.
1. Heat-Shrink Tube Preparation
Before mounting the socket:
- Slide the heat-shrink tube onto the cable.
- Position it so it will cover the rear connection after the socket is fixed.
This step is unique to the heat-shrink model.
2. Silicone Gasket Placement
The silicone gasket is placed on the threaded head. Installers must check:
- Alignment
- Smooth placement
- Contact area against the lighting surface
This ensures the front seal is strong.
3. Socket Mounting
The socket is fixed against the lighting fixture surface. Installers tighten gently at first to prevent misalignment.
4. Securement Ring Application
A securement ring keeps the gasket from shifting.
This helps installers avoid wrinkling during the final tightening.
5. Heat-Shrink Activation
A heat gun is used to shrink the tube around the cable:
- Heat evenly
- Avoid burning
- Let it tighten smoothly
Once cooled, it becomes a hard, sealed protective barrier.
6. Final Nut Tightening
After heat-shrinking:
- Tighten the zinc nut
- Use a screwdriver or torque tool
- Go above 2.5 N·m for stable installation
This step locks the entire sealing system together.
Table: Installation Differences (Traditional vs. Heat-Shrink)
Step | Traditional Gland Type | Heat-Shrink Type |
Rear sealing | Gland only | Gland + heat-shrink |
Tools needed | Basic tools | + Heat gun |
Waterproof level | IP66 | IP66 with extra sealing |
Best environment | General outdoor | Harsh, corrosive, coastal |
Cable protection | Standard | High-strength, anti-pull |
This small difference in the installation process creates a big difference in long-term durability, especially for lights using a photo cell sensor or outdoor light sensor switch.
Conclusion
The JL-700 series shows how careful design, small improvements, and real installer feedback can transform a simple socket into a high-performance outdoor lighting solution. Each version responds to what professionals struggle with in the field, from gasket wrinkling to extreme waterproofing needs.
Whether the project is a quiet residential road or a windy coastal bridge with photocell LED street light controllers, the JL-700 family has a version that fits the job. This is why Long-Join’s Zhaga sockets continue to support reliable smart-lighting systems around the world.
External Links:
●https://study.com/academy/lesson/what-is-oxidation-definition-process-examples.html
●https://www.zhagastandard.org/books/overview/smart-interface-between-outdoor-luminaires-and-sensing-communication-modules-18.html
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